Maintenance Tip #1 Preparing the water heater

Turn off the power if its an electric water heater.

Turn off the water to the water heater by closing the valve on the cold water line. Its located on top of the water heater. The cold line is always to the right.
Open a hot water tap inside the house. Air pressure will come out of the tap.
Open the drain valve located at the bottom of the water heater. It looks like a
hose bibb. Let a gallon or more out of the water heater.
Do not allow anyone to use hot water for the time you are working on the water heater.

Maintenance Tip #2 Why do maintenance?

The information in this article isn’t public knowledge. It should be. It is also very difficult to find any maintenance information about water heaters anywhere.
These tips will make it more heat efficient, and far less capable of causing problems down the road. Most maintenance is quick and cheap as well.

Maintenance Tip #3 Access of the hexhead

On top of every tank-type water heater lies a hexagonal-shaped head. It is either readily seen or it is not. If it is not, then this is a chance for improving the future maintenance of the water heater.
Drill very shallow 1/4 inch holes one at a time through the sheet metal top of the water heater. Do not drill into the water heater or it will be unusable. Once a hole is drilled use a thin object such as a pen or screwdriver to poke inside and locate the hex head.

When located, use tin snips to peel back the tin metal at the top and remove any foam insulation near the hex head. Use tape to cover up the sharp edges of the tin metal to avoid cutting your hands. Pat the edges of tin down with a hammer as well. Now your anode rods inside your tank can be maintained more easily. That’s because they are attached to the hex head.

Maintenance Tip #4 When can a gas water heater receive maintenance?

Turn the control dial to PILOT. Look inside the combustion chamber once the flame is out with a flashlight. Do you see any water, rust, or water marks? If yes, then you’ll probably need to invest in a brand new water heater altogether. If no, then maintenance of the water heater will be an option for you. Now look on top of the gas water heater at the chimney baffle. It’s the long piece of tin metal that extends to the ceiling usually. Does it have any rust on it? If yes, then you have poor ventilation in the room with the water heater in it. Call a plumber for advice on your situation, because you don’t want a hole rusted through the tin metal. If no rust appears, maintenance can be performed.

Maintenance Tip #5 Recording the maintenance you do.

Put a large sticker on the outside of the water heater, but don’t put it on anything important. Record the date when you check or replace the anode rods. Also write down any time you flush the tank out. If any new parts are used, write the part and date down too.

Maintenance Tip #6 Anode inspection

Check your anode rods every two or three years. Every once in awhile the anode location is written on the instruction on the outside of the water heater.
You may have a combination anode rod. This means that it is attached to the hot water outlet on top of the water heater. To find out if you have one, disconnect the plumbing at the water heater and the hot water outlet, which is always on the left. Poke a clothes hanger wire straight down inside the hole. If it hits something a few inches inside, you have a combination anode. Use a pipe wrench to remove the combination anode.

You may have an anode rod underneath a plastic disc only 2 inches wide or less. Pop the disc and then use a 1-1/16 inch socket wrench, a 3/4 drive, and a breaker bar. Any person may have to steady the tank when you unscrew the anode rod.

Most homes look and feel cozier when they have a fireplace, especially a workable one that the owners use on occasion. But even an attractive fixture of this type can be dangerous if it is not managed correctly or safely. If you have recently purchased a home that has a fireplace, find and read maintenance guidelines to make sure your fireplace continues to be a source of pleasure rather than pain.

When taking possession of your home, ask the previous owner about the condition of the fireplace. Find out whether it was used, and if so, how often. Inquire as to whether there were problems with the fireplace, and if the chimney ever needed or received any type of repairs. It also would be a good idea to ask if there had been any problems with a fire starting from the fireplace or if carbon monoxide levels were checked. Once you have this information, you will have a better idea of what needs to be done.

Get the chimney inspected. Even if the past owners confirmed that the fireplace was in good working order, an annual checkup is advisable to make sure the flue remains operational, and that creosote has not built up to dangerous levels. Besides, small animals like birds, squirrels, and bats can build nests in the chimney at any time, and severe weather can take an unexpected toll, so a yearly inspection is a good idea.

Learn how to start, maintain, and put out fireplace flames. Keep the necessary materials on hand, like kindling wood and a lighter. Do not burn just any kind of materials in the fireplace, as some, like aerosol containers, may explode while others may release toxic substances.

Keep the right equipment on hand. You will want to put up a screen to keep sparks from darting onto the floor or nearby furniture. A poker will let you stir the embers to check for embers. You will need a shovel and a small dustpan to remove ashes, as well as a bin for firewood. Don’t forget to keep a fire extinguisher on hand, and know how to use it. Teach family members what to do in case the flame should get out of control. Install a carbon monoxide detector and a smoke detector in the room to pick up early levels of problem fumes or smoke. Without the necessary items, you could run the risk of letting a fire spread into the room.

Never leave a fireplace flame unattended. Someone should stay in the room or be in and out frequently to monitor its burning. Otherwise, if a problem occurs, it could spread quickly without adequate supervision. Make sure the fire has burned out before leaving the house or going to bed. Don’t close the flue until the fire is completely out, or the house could fill with smoke or carbon monoxide.

A fire in your hearth is a beautiful sight, but it is important to learn how to tend it properly. Get the necessary guidelines and equipment before burning logs in your home fireplace.

As days grow shorter and temperatures fall, it’s time once again to prepare your home for the long winter months ahead. Taking a few minutes now to walk around your home—visually inspecting important systems from a safety perspective and making note of routine maintenance chores that need attention—is a great way to get started, and a good winter maintenance checklist can help.

Here are some tips to help get you started:

Clean gutters and downspouts. A clogged gutter or downspout can freeze and wreak havoc on your home. Make a point of checking your gutters and downspouts well before daytime temperature’s dip below 32 degrees fahrenheit.

Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Use the testing feature on each device to make sure it’s working. Replace batteries and inoperable units as needed.

Recharge or replace fire extinguishers. Check the gauge on every fire extinguisher to make sure it’s fully charged (arrow pointing to the green area of the gauge). Remove each extinguisher from its mounting bracket and turn it upside down to help prevent the dry chemicals inside from caking on the bottom over time. If your fire extinguishers are more than one year old, consider having them inspected by a professional.

Check furnace vents. If your home has a forced air furnace, check to make sure that vents in primary living areas are open and unobstructed. You can partially close vents located in less frequently used rooms, but don’t close them all the way unless you’re sure there is no chance of water pipes freezing as a result. Keep in mind that temperatures inside the walls of your home will be lower than adjacent living areas.

Stock up on furnace filters. Dirty furnace filters waste energy. They also force your furnace to work harder to heat your home. Your owner’s manual should explain what types of filters are best for your furnace, and how often they need to be changed. Keep in mind that a high-efficiency air filter will trap more dirt than a conventional filter and may need to be replaced more frequently to keep your furnace from overheating.

Schedule checkups for all home heating systems. Regular maintenance can help furnaces, wood stoves, chimneys and other home heating components stay in top working order. Most experts recommend that you schedule an annual inspection by a qualified professional for each system, but service intervals may vary from one system or manufacturer to another, so play it safe and check your owners manual or contact each heating system manufacturer for guidance.

Replace worn out weather strips. Worn out weather stripping around windows and doors can dramatically increase your home heating costs. Weather strips are easy to replace, and should pay for themselves in a very short time.

Inspect the insulation in attics and crawl spaces. Over time, fiberglass insulation panels can sag away from rafters, joists and wall cavities, allowing cold air to penetrate your home. Duct tape can be used to reseat a small problem area, but extensive sagging may indicate a moisture problem. Try to determine the source of this problem before you replace large areas of insulation. And, if you decide to replace the insulation yourself, make sure you follow manufacturer guidelines for personal protective equipment.

Protect exterior water valves. Hose bibs located in an unheated garage or on the outside of your home may need protection to prevent freezing damage. Inexpensive insulating covers are available at most home centers, but it’s still a good idea to shut off the water supply connected to the hose bib from inside the home. After shutting off the water supply, open each hose bib to allow any remaining water to drain. Disconnect hoses and store them inside for the winter.